A little overdue, but there you go.
Towards the beginning of September I looked everywhere for a lightweight coat suitable for Autumn. I looked in all the shops. Nothing would suit or fit me. I looked in ALL the charity shops (it took a day). Nothing that I would like or in my size.
I decided to make my own, but couldn’t find a pattern that I had in my head. I wanted hip length, Peter Pan collar, large pockets on the outside, slightly A–line and a box pleat at the back (that’s a must!). I wanted it to be as simple as possible. I didn’t have a clue how to draft a coat pattern, how much ease one needs in sleeves and how much in body. I needed a starting point.
Talea coat from burdastyle looks a long shot from what I wanted, with its princess seams and lots of detailing, but hey, it’s free!
I cut out all the pattern pieces and arranged the princess seams next to each other. I could immediately see that they touch around bust area and at the bottom, leaving a gap that will form waist shaping when sewn. I didn’t want waist shaping, so the easiest thing to do was to glue the pieces together and disregard the hole in the middle. That still leaves the gap at the top of the princess seam, which forms the curve in the yoke. I left it, but used it as a dart marking – which gave me lovely fit at the top, but no waist shaping. I did the same with the back, but added some width in the middle for my box pleat. I ended up with one piece for the back, and two front pieces (instead of four and four respectively).
I changed the collar as well, lined the pockets and put in lining. I didn’t know how to do it, but somehow managed to figure it out.


I spent a little bit more on the fabric, because I figured I’d wear it a lot, so it made sense to put some extra effort into making this a quality garment.
I bought nice, large wood buttons, which are stitched not onto the coat, but smaller shell buttons on the other side (to prevent fabric pulling). The biggest challenge though was making bound buttonholes, which I have never done before, and got it completely wrong – started from the wrong side – and had to unpick it all and fix the holes I made in the process… Let me tell you, there were tears. But once fixed – they look great, so I think I will do them again on something.


It took me almost 4 days to make, including fiddling with the pattern, but it was worth it – I did indeed wear it a lot. Until it got colder and I found almost exactly the same coat, but heavier and longer, in local charity shop for £1. That’s another story though…